tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4821361151519787722024-02-20T02:58:39.083-08:00BJS Planes and WoodworkingCustom Infill Plane MakerBJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comBlogger27125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-72569851406549935082018-09-01T21:51:00.000-07:002018-09-01T21:51:35.088-07:00Latest PlanesHere are some photos of my latest planes. (Click on any photo to enlarge).<br />
If you would like to follow more of my day to day plane making please check me out on Instagram.
You do not have to be an Instagram member, just click on the big pink camera on any page of this website or Google search: bjsplanes Instagram.
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Low Slung Smoother: LSS-30 with figured Belah infill.
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LSS-35 with ringed Gidgee infill
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LSS-35 with Damascus steel sides and Ebony infill
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And matching Damascus steel and Ebony adjustment hammer
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Squirrel Tail plane with Coolabah burl infill
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<br />BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-78740997119109101212018-01-27T21:18:00.002-08:002018-01-27T21:18:58.872-08:00Gidgee burl smoothing planeI was excited to get the opportunity to use some of this beautiful Gidgee burl in one of my low-slung smoothing planes.
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(Click on any photo to enlarge).
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This is rare and valuable wood, so I had to be extra careful on the band saw.
I got some nice clean blocks and I made sure to keep even the smallest off-cuts.
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The shoe box of small pieces will be good for inlay work, small infills or beautiful knife scales.
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Here are a few photos of the finished LSS-35 smoothing plane.
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This low slung smoother measures 156mm long, with a 35mm wide blade.
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The imperial equivalent measurements would be approximately 6 <sup> 1</sup>/<sub>8</sub>” long, with a 1 <sup> 3</sup>/<sub>8</sub>” wide blade.
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I used to make this plane size with an 1 <sup> 1</sup>/<sub>4</sub>” (31.75mm) wide blade. The extra blade width definitely improves this small smoother.
BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-24539490471417788702017-11-18T18:47:00.000-08:002017-11-18T18:47:34.427-08:00Red Gum Slab Table Build Part 3The next step is to dovetail in the lower and upper stretchers. This is the lower stretcher detail with the entire frame turned upside down.
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I used 12mm birch ply, which is permanently fixed to the lower stretcher and the dovetailed section will just be dry screwed. This joint will again not be visible but I stained it black to match the frame when it is ebonised.
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The upper stretcher is also dovetailed, but not glued, so the entire frame can be dismantled when needed. I used 19mm thick material so it not visible under the top.
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Dovetail ready to be planed flush. This dovetail was also cut by hand.
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Everything is finished and disassembled. The next morning I give everything a final smooth and begin the ebonising.
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The ebonising solution is made by dissolving fine steel wool in household vinegar.
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After dissolving for a couple of weeks, I just strained the solution through some fine cloth and then a coffee filter. The Victorian Ash is a good wood for ebonising because it has a high level of natural tannins. Of course I experimented with several off-cuts before doing the entire frame. I wanted the frame to be a very dark black to match the pitch pockets in the slab. The results were great and better yet the process was non-toxic.
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The frame is top coated with five coats of Danish Oil and ready for the slab top.
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I shot some video on the day I did some final smoothing before ebonising.
I am using the low slung smoothers that I make. This one is 6 & 5/8” long with an 1 & 1/2” wide blade. I find it easier and more enjoyable to push a smaller smoother. The narrower blade means that you make more passes however, with a little camber even this Ring-Porous, Victorian Ash comes up glassy smooth.
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<br />BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-91373877540623710902017-09-30T22:35:00.002-07:002017-09-30T22:35:42.012-07:00Red Gum Slab Table Build Part 2Here is a beautiful Red Gum slab that I purchased last year. <span style="color: #b45f06;">(Click on any photo to enlarge)</span>
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It’s a monster! 2.4 meters long by 1.2 meters wide and 50 mm thick. It weighs approximately 150 kgs. First order of business was to fill all of the pitch pockets and checks with clear epoxy.
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The more meticulous you are with the filling process, the better the finish you will get.
Here is the top after a good polish and eight coats of Danish Oil.
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The lower frame was a good challenge and pretty labour intensive. It involved cutting some big, half blind dovetails. Even though this joint will be hidden, perfect accuracy was important because of the massive weight of the top. Sloppy joinery would not hold up. The added challenge was that the frame was angled at 5 ½ degrees. I have cut many dovetails but it was surprising how this angle made it tricky to sight my lines when cutting. Also the Victorian Ash is 44 mm thick. After cutting all of the tails with my dovetail saw, I carefully lay out the pins.
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You can see from the photo how I used an off-cut to register the 5 ½ degree angle to lay out the pins. Then I used my Lie Neilson dovetail saw to cut the pins.
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A series of relief cuts are made and then the first section of waste can be removed with a Jeweller’s saw.
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Then I switched to a more aggressive Coping saw to remove the remaining waste.
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Removing the rest of the waste involves many hours of chiselling. You know the quote “To understand you must do”.
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A glue up of this scale is always stressful but, my careful layout and accurate sawing and chiselling paid off.
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In my next blog, I will finish up with the build of the base by showing the dovetailing of the the upper and lower stretchers. Then I will show ebonising and applying the Danish Oil finish.
BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-49605827286108738682017-06-24T22:26:00.000-07:002017-06-24T22:26:19.771-07:00Red Gum Slab TableSorry it’s been a while!
Got the kitchen and laundry finished. (Click on any photo to enlarge).<br />
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We also have had our en-suite bathroom renovated over the last few months and I decided to make the vanity. The drawers are made from Birch ply and the solid wood is Victorian Ash.<br />
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The drawers are finished with my own homemade beeswax finish, which smells beautiful. The Vic Ash is finished with Danish oil.
Re-sawing the Vic Ash was a good effort for my 14” bandsaw.<br />
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I only have a small thicknesser, so once the panels were jointed and glued I worked them to finished dimension with handplanes. It is always nice to find a reason to use my beautiful, Lie-Nielson #8.<br />
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I was just about to get back into some plane making, when this Red Gum slab caught my eye.<br />
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Here is a sneak peak photo of the progress. I will go through the building process in detail in my next blog.<br />
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<br />BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-84001881580052084552016-06-13T00:33:00.000-07:002016-06-13T00:33:54.623-07:00Stanley #51 & 52 plane and shoot boardWow! This year is flying by.
As I said in my last blog post, my wife and I are doing some house renovations and we are neck deep in tearing out the kitchen. (Click on any photo to enlarge).
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The reno is not allowing me time to make any planes but I am however, still taking a little time here and there to refurb some old tools. My latest is this old Stanley #51 & 52 plane and shoot board.
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I was given an opportunity to purchase this from a friend, who is selling off his collection. I did not want to purchase this plane just because it was a cool object. I wanted to see how well this old plane and shoot board performed. My friend was happy for me to take it and if I could get it working, then money would exchange hands.
The whole thing was covered in a thick layer of dust, so I gave it a good wipe down, covered it in Camellia oil and it sat for several weeks before I could get back to it.
I then wiped all the oily residue off with a rag and some methylated spirits. When the plane body was clean, I could then get a good look at the plane’s condition and how well it was machined. The plane body was square and looked good.
The next order of business was to sharpen the blade and tune the chip breaker. The back of the blade flattened up quickly, however you can see that there is a considerable amount of pitting in the blade.
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I knew that it would work but, I need to get a replacement blade. I will probably try a Lee Valley replacement in that fancy “PMV-11” steel.
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Then I needed to tune up the frog. I apologise that I didn’t get any photos of this process, but at the time I was more worried about getting it done than grabbing the camera. The frog did need a serious tuning. It was not meeting to the plane body very well, so I unscrewed it and filed the mating surfaces until everything was true. I screwed the frog back to the body and then trued up the entire bed angle.
Next I turned my attention to the #52 shoot board.
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The track that the plane runs in will wear over time so it can be adjusted to allow for this.
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The adjustment screws and bolts were seized solid, so I soaked them in a pool of WD-40 for a few days. The next photo shows the shoot board, flipped over and one of the four bolts in it’s WD-40 bath.
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By the next weekend the bolts were free and the fence was again adjustable.
It was now time for the long awaited test drive. My engineer square was telling me that the plane body was nice and square but I was curious to see how flat the sole was. A quality straight edge is fine, but I like to test flatness by using another plane. If you have a plane made by Lie Nielson or Veritas, then it should be well machined and pretty damn flat. I jointed a piece of wood with my Lie Nielson 5½ Jack Plane and took a few light shavings. The old Stanley followed up the 5½ with equally thin shavings, no problem. So I knew that the sole was good and true.
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Now it was time to see how it felt while shooting using the #52. Up until now my shooting set up has been the Veritas low angle jack and it has done a great job.
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Here is a short video of the old Stanley in action. I am really happy with it and am confident that it will perform even better when I get the new thicker replacement blade.
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BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-25826408361169752742016-03-28T20:50:00.000-07:002016-03-28T20:50:30.201-07:00Bullnose plane refurbMy wife and I have decided to do some house renovations so unfortunately there won’t be much plane making happening in the shop this year. I will however be taking a little time here and there to fix up some old tools that I have acquired. The first is this old, gunmetal bullnose plane.<br />
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As you can see from the photo it needs a new blade, wedge and a good tune up. (Click on any photo to enlarge).<br />
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First I mark out the new blade on a piece of ⅛” thick, 01 tool steel.
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I make sure that I saw close to my layout line so I don’t have to do too much filing.
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Then I file the bevels.
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The new blade next to the old one.
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I send the blade to the heat-treaters and then make sure that the bed angle is true.
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Now I concentrate on lapping the sole and sides.
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A little extra pressure here and there while lapping is how I fine tune for squareness.
I use the old blade and wedge while lapping so I can keep working while the new blade is being heat treated.
After I get the blade back and sharpened, I can make the new wedge.
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I decided to use a cutoff of Kingwood for the new wedge and I think that it polished up quite nicely.
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A couple of short afternoons of work and I have another handy little plane for the toolbox.
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<br />BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-88414548347161621652016-01-04T00:51:00.001-08:002016-01-04T00:51:37.027-08:00New low-slung smoother<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1_fubOAJdtmzXmZwng1LuoJaMX5skrBj61X2vPX9qO1GQNI1-8hydrVVhjZzYtvCPg3YbFstTG9RNHEtkgVWc8Gr27EQpPTxY9DRaoZq9kBlLg_fuaeHjGxGC7n4QsaVn5ROB5U1L1q09/s1600/1-IMG_1962.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1_fubOAJdtmzXmZwng1LuoJaMX5skrBj61X2vPX9qO1GQNI1-8hydrVVhjZzYtvCPg3YbFstTG9RNHEtkgVWc8Gr27EQpPTxY9DRaoZq9kBlLg_fuaeHjGxGC7n4QsaVn5ROB5U1L1q09/s320/1-IMG_1962.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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For this plane I decided to simplify things further by eliminating the chip breaker.
This allows the user to resharpen and get back to smoothing without too much fuss. Also the plane is extremely easy to set up and adjust using a small plane hammer.<br />
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I made the blade from 6mm thick 01 tool steel. A <sup>3</sup>/<sub>16</sub>"
thick (4.76mm) or 5mm thick blade would be sufficient but I had heaps of 6mm
tool steel off cuts. The infill wood is another beautiful piece of ringed
gidgee, the blade is 1 <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub>" wide and the plane is 6 <sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub>"
long. <br />
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Here are some more photos (click on any photo to enlarge).<br />
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<span id="goog_1129640731"></span><span id="goog_1129640732"></span><br />
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I have decided to include a short video to show how simple it is to set up this plane using the "flat block" technique. This is not something that I came up with. A lot of woodworkers use a flat block to set up their planes that do not have mechanical adjusters.
The mistake that I see repeated however, is that the block that they are using is not actually flat. This will result in the plane taking too heavy a cut and/or the lateral adjustment will be off.
To set up the plane, I used a 25mm thick MDF off cut that has been quickly lapped on my engineer's plate using some 400 grit sandpaper.
I flattened the MDF piece about 8 months ago, so it is not something that you would do every time you set up your plane.
MDF works well because it is stable and the surface is durable but not too hard on the cutting edge.
In the video, I am taking a shaving from a piece of wood a little less than the width of the blade to better demonstrate the accuracy of this
technique.<br />
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Happy New Year.<br />
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<br />BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-31024610187049262362015-10-17T22:32:00.000-07:002015-10-17T22:32:28.600-07:00Infill FittingI was fitting a gidgee infill in another low-slung smoother this weekend and recorded a short video. The final fit is a one shaving at a time process. Nothing technically challenging, but it was nice to get some time in the shop. The front infill is quite small, so my squirrel tail plane is a nice sized plane for the job.<br />
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Happy Shavings!<br />
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BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-68922897540090095622015-09-11T21:30:00.000-07:002015-09-11T21:30:00.597-07:00Gidgee Burl<br />
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<h3>
<span style="color: #b45f06;">"As rare as hen's teeth"</span></h3>
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Click on any photo to enlarge.</div>
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BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-41647273659539185912015-07-12T00:02:00.001-07:002015-07-12T00:02:53.657-07:00Plane Adjustment HammerMy latest little project is this plane adjustment hammer. <span style="color: #b45f06;">(Click on any photo to enlarge).</span>
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The hammer head is made from Gidgee and brass. The striking faces are Maple and Ebony, which are attached by a sliding dovetail. For adjusting a plane, I use the Maple face for tapping the plane body and the Ebony face to tap and laterally adjust the blade. The handle is made from a piece of Victoria Ash, which is mortised through the head and wedged with Ebony. The hammer head weighs 6.5 oz.
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Here are some links for other plane hammers:<br />
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Sterling Tool Works,
<a href="http://www.sterlingtoolworks.com/sample-page/plane-hammer/" target="_blank">http://www.sterlingtoolworks.com/sample-page/plane-hammer/</a><br />
Lee Valley Plane Hammer, <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=46540&cat=1,41182" target="_blank">http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=46540&cat=1,41182</a><br />
Glen-Drake Toolworks,
<a href="http://www.glen-drake.com/Plane-Adjusting-Hammers/" target="_blank">http://www.glen-drake.com/Plane-Adjusting-Hammers/</a>
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<br />BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-61310330324939123452015-05-16T22:26:00.000-07:002015-05-16T22:26:08.339-07:00Filing the mouth opening of an infill plane<br />
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At this stage I am feeling pretty good because I am in the home stretch.
If my layout was done accurately from the start, then there should not be much filing to do to achieve a nice tight opening. The first step is to lap the sole flat. Then I take a square and mark a couple of reference lines across the mouth with a fine pencil. Before filing I make sure that my bench lights are set so I get a good reflection off the area that is being filed. When I feel like I am getting close, I put the blade in and hold it up to a bright light.
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It is important to have the blade lapped and sharpened so I can accurately gauge my progress. In the photo you can see that I am getting close but the blade is not yet protruding through the sole. I keep filing and checking to the light until the blade just peeks through and I can see just a minute line of light across the mouth opening. Now I install the blade and lever cap in the plane and set it to take a nice even shaving.
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I can then turn the plane over and take a look. At this stage the opening is only visible by sighting through a bright light. This of course is too tight, so I file a little more until I am happy with the size of the opening.
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A little more clean up around the edges and it’s finished. When I resharpen the blade for smoothing I will ease the edges of the blade more aggressively. Now I just have to sand the plane, polish up the brass sides and apply the finish.
Here are some photos of the finished plane. The sides are naval brass and the infill is a beautiful piece of ringed gidgee.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIVbDEjQQTXjqQLBn9XNTIknwYL6w-ts5ax__YZ75RI622KN_01tclzXKarWJHGCVJe9Dhvi3lgUlFf7-S3PzmGGZ_lYYJONx1K__oQx7Xx4neMVX303gQ7VuJiwRPgjfZ42El-NakR699/s1600/5-IMG_1726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIVbDEjQQTXjqQLBn9XNTIknwYL6w-ts5ax__YZ75RI622KN_01tclzXKarWJHGCVJe9Dhvi3lgUlFf7-S3PzmGGZ_lYYJONx1K__oQx7Xx4neMVX303gQ7VuJiwRPgjfZ42El-NakR699/s1600/5-IMG_1726.JPG" title="1 ½” low-slung smoother, 6 ¾” long, 1 ½” wide blade, 50° pitch, Gidgee infill" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"> 1 ½” low-slung smoother, 6 ¾” long, 1 ½” wide blade, 50° pitch, Gidgee infill</span></td></tr>
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<br />BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-42315114690752393852015-02-07T20:52:00.000-08:002015-02-07T20:52:57.137-08:00Number One 1” Low-Slung Smoother<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqclUajGOYtEU8heHgKLEUVK5AUSc3y0MweAkvGQSbCVyG-kYDtDVMJ8VF5LLix_h9O4gZ2UIWoEOrObyfpqaM777YxKAnAKS2eJnttN8bjSHWRufrcJLpukNj-2tXIqNbyy5EklNPEIfq/s1600/1-IMG_1680.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqclUajGOYtEU8heHgKLEUVK5AUSc3y0MweAkvGQSbCVyG-kYDtDVMJ8VF5LLix_h9O4gZ2UIWoEOrObyfpqaM777YxKAnAKS2eJnttN8bjSHWRufrcJLpukNj-2tXIqNbyy5EklNPEIfq/s1600/1-IMG_1680.jpg" height="240" title="1” Low-slung smoother- 5 ½” long, 1” wide blade, 50° pitch, Gidgee infill " width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">1” Low-slung smoother- 5 ½” long, 1” wide blade, 50° pitch, Gidgee infill</span></td></tr>
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I had two weeks off in early January and it was a great time to get in the shop. No distractions, taking my morning coffee, opening my humble little shop and smelling freshly cut gidgee…
I could get used to this!
Here are a few more photos of the plane that I made in the time. Click on any image to enlarge.<br />
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This is my smallest low-slung smoother.
I tweaked the shape a bit by introducing a four degree slope to the front of the plane. It felt more natural when shaping the front bun and I think the four degree slope gives this design a racier aesthetic. This effect will be more visible on the larger sizes of this style plane, as the rear infill of the plane stretches out.
I am pretty confident that this will be the last change to the design.
I am happy to say that this plane is sold and safely in the hands of its new owner overseas.
BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-62995987853557811802014-12-20T21:14:00.000-08:002018-06-29T23:21:15.128-07:00The Other Cabinetmakers Tool ChestI have a few weeks’ holidays for Christmas and I decided to bring my tool chest home from work to give it a good clean up. The photo shows the worst corner where somebody accidentally sprayed contact glue. (Click on any photo to enlarge).
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This photo shows the chest after a good clean and a fresh coat of tung oil.<br />
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I built this chest back in Canada in 2007. I remember getting inspired to build this chest after attending an antiques fair in Calgary, Alberta. A vendor at the fair was selling old wooden chests. Nothing that fancy, no intricate inlays but the chests were well made and had been well used. The dents and patina really gave these chests character. I also was inspired to build this chest out of necessity. I was coming to the end of my four year cabinetmaking apprenticeship, so I had worked out the basic hand tools that I needed for the job. The problem with my plastic tool box was that each tool didn’t have its own place. Also, when I would put a bunch of tools together to go out to install a cabinet, everything was just a thrown together mess. A craftsperson should be able to look in their tool box and know when something is missing or out of place.
When it came to designing the chest, I wanted to keep it simple, strong joinery and not too big and heavy. Cherry was a good wood choice and it darkens nicely over time. I bought my plastic tool box home to my little basement workshop, and spread the tools out on the floor and designed the chest around these tools.<br />
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As you can see these tools are nothing fancy. These are the tools that I started with. The planes are flea market finds but I tuned them up nicely. As an apprentice I had more time than money. I actually used the #5 Stanley to smooth the outside of this chest.
Here is a photo of the chest and its trays empty. The dimensions of the chest are 25 ¾” long by 14 ⅛” wide by 13 ½” high.<br />
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The next group of photos shows the tools fitted in the chest and trays.<br />
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All of the tools can be easily accessed with the trays permanently in the chest.<br />
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The small drawer in the lower tray is a key design element to this chest. It makes all those small tools easily accessible. I open and close it dozens of times a day. A rear earth magnet keeps it closed during transport. The drawer sides are made from Rock Maple, which is hard and smooth. It is also a good contrasting colour for the half blind dovetails.<br />
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The cut out sections in the front till allow me to grab my level and also gives clearance to push the top tray back.<br />
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This chest sits on a stand next to my bench, which keeps it at a good working height. Of course I have many larger squares and layout tools hanging on the wall behind my bench that I need for the job as well.
This chest can easily be modified to suit the hand tool hobbyist. It will handle all the hand planes that most people need, and by taking away the level till you would allow more clearance for the sliding trays. The biggest mistake I see with tool chests is that people make the trays too deep and this means wasted space.
Here are a couple of photos of my two chests side by side.<br />
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The inlayed chest is the one I use at home for my fancier tools. I made this one two years earlier in 2005. You can check it out in an earlier blog, <a href="http://www.bjsplanesandwoodworking.com/2013/05/cabinetmakers-tool-chest.html" target="_blank">Cabinetmaker’s Tool Chest</a>.<br />
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I have a couple of priority low-slung smoothers to get to in the New Year. The first 1” low-slung smoother is dovetailed and ready for peening.<br />
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<br />BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-21886817073660966482014-10-04T20:29:00.000-07:002014-10-04T20:29:46.522-07:00Damascus Steel Infill PlaneMy latest plane is all about the challenge of trying out a new material, and I thought that Damascus steel would work nicely with my low-slung smoother design. As soon as you lap Damascus steel the pattern disappears, so you have to etch it with ferric acid to bring out the pattern again. I knew this job was going to be better handled by my wife, the “mad scientist”. We did a bit of internet research regarding the etching process and a little experimenting on a few off-cuts. I always lap the insides of my planes before assembly, so acid etching the inside was a good warm up.
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Here is a couple of photos of me doing the final fit of the ebony infills. I used two of my low-slung smoothers from my original set.
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After the infills are in and all the cross pins are drilled and peened, it is time to lap the outside up to 600 grit.
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Now it’s time for the final acid etching to the outside of the plane. I was definitely less nervous about how the etching was going to turn out because my wife had perfected her process and did a great job on the inside. Here is a photo of the pattern reappearing under the ferric acid.
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Under the acid you can see the dovetails and cross pins clearly. When the acid is removed however the cross pins and dovetails turn a dull grey. I wanted the dovetails to be more visible, even from a distance, so I decided to make a quick sanding tool out of some scrap aluminium (or aluminum) and meticulously sanded each dovetail.
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The finished plane turned out better than I imagined. I picked Damascus steel with a pattern that was leaning forward to give the feeling of forward momentum.
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTI2jmOXAX5fFeOhMRVjejUtVOvjririuSnm6wD9jbS_9qE8CDgASYB2K1YX2vlIgqXnpJz7tiIqNr5jodVHDX8dbUelMk1Ox3Y4dYNhczy5hUbW6rGrxzJSzL9sF4yAfWWUAOS-xDte3r/s1600/9-IMG_1409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTI2jmOXAX5fFeOhMRVjejUtVOvjririuSnm6wD9jbS_9qE8CDgASYB2K1YX2vlIgqXnpJz7tiIqNr5jodVHDX8dbUelMk1Ox3Y4dYNhczy5hUbW6rGrxzJSzL9sF4yAfWWUAOS-xDte3r/s1600/9-IMG_1409.jpg" height="240" title="1¼” Low-slung smoother – 6⅛” long, 1¼” wide blade, 50° pitch, Damascus steel, ebony infill" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">1¼” Low-slung smoother – 6⅛” long, 1¼” wide blade, 50° pitch</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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If you would like a more detailed description of acid etching an infill plane, check out Konrad Sauer’s blog – <a href="http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.com.au/2012/03/etching-pattern-welded-steel-damascus.html" target="_blank">Etching pattern welded steel - Damascus</a>. I would also like to mention Brian Buckner. I am pretty sure that he was the first plane maker to use Damascus steel. Both Brian and Konrad’s Damascus steel planes were a huge source of inspiration.
Also, feel free to contact me if anyone has any questions regarding plane making using Damascus steel. Here are a few more photos.
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<br />BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-32893904280120994762014-08-16T21:20:00.000-07:002018-04-01T22:44:36.702-07:00Beautiful Australian TimbersAs I said before, using different species of wood is
certainly one of the main things that excite me as a craftsman and Australia
has some pretty amazing timbers that I am keen to try. Here is a picture of a
variety of Aussie timbers after a morning milling session.<br />
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Some species milled on the day include: Red Coolibah burl,
Mallee burl, York Gum burl, Black Box burl, Inceana, Ringed Gidgee, Mulga,
Hooked Needlewood, Belah, and Beefwood.<br />
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Not all woods that I purchase are intended for infill plane
materials however, they will come in handy for future woodworking projects. The
only Australian timber that I have used for infill planes to date is Gidgee
(Acacia Cambageli). This wood, when properly seasoned, is definitely stable
enough for infill planes. It is hard to find technical data but I would rate
its specific gravity somewhere between 1.20 to 1.40 (this stuff doesn’t
float).</div>
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Most plane lovers would know Gidgee from the beautiful work
of HNT Gordon & Co. (<a href="http://www.hntgordon.com.au/" target="_blank">http://www.hntgordon.com.au/</a>).</div>
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Gidgee has a rich, dark chocolate brown colour and fills my
shop with a sweet, smoky fragrance. Ringed Gidgee is the truly beautiful stuff
and the figure can be more commonly described as fiddleback in appearance. </div>
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Here is a photo of one of my small, precious pieces. I want
to use this in my next squirrel tail plane.</div>
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For more information regarding Australian timbers, check out
these sites:</div>
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<li>Djarilmari Timber Products (<a href="http://www.djarilmari.com/" target="_blank">http://www.djarilmari.com/</a>)</li>
<li>Forrest Products<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Commission (<a href="http://www.fpc.wa.gov.au/content_migration/plantations/species/" target="_blank">http://www.fpc.wa.gov.au/content_migration/plantations/species/</a>)</li>
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I am currently experimenting with some Damascus steel. I
haven’t had much free time lately, but so far, so good.</div>
BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-27752888165990589512014-06-13T17:35:00.000-07:002014-06-13T17:35:53.743-07:001 ¼” Low-slung smootherI just finished this commission. Here is a picture with its first coat of finish.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR88mzEHViU5OxOw-9HfsI7yykiXrcavoDp2qyB14hglotRUQDoHc1DO-HexMg9NdRO68-d_U_oFKQDI0iECAFcm8tP5qQ1VpC-4VjHy2Yte7PeNnP8C9ekCWUtqimYc4L3pn8rjfqVuLV/s1600/1-IMG_1296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR88mzEHViU5OxOw-9HfsI7yykiXrcavoDp2qyB14hglotRUQDoHc1DO-HexMg9NdRO68-d_U_oFKQDI0iECAFcm8tP5qQ1VpC-4VjHy2Yte7PeNnP8C9ekCWUtqimYc4L3pn8rjfqVuLV/s1600/1-IMG_1296.JPG" height="240" title="1¼” Low-slung smoother – 6⅛” long, 1¼” wide blade, 01 tool steel, Naval brass, Kingwood infill" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">1¼” Low-slung smoother – 6⅛” long, 1¼” wide blade, 01 Tool steel, Naval brass, Kingwood infill</span></td></tr>
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I was contacted a couple of months ago by a local woodworker and hand tool enthusiast, who was interested in potentially commissioning one of my planes. The next step was simple, invite him over for a Saturday afternoon and take some shavings. It was a great day, low key and lots of fun. He was able to try all of my planes, old and new, and was happy to pick them up and put them to work.
Like myself, he enjoys doing smaller woodworking projects and he was attracted to the feel and versatility of the 1¼” low-slung smoother. If you do fine woodworking, chances are you do smallish projects such as box making or small drawers, or your larger projects include small details such as inlays. This small smoother is great for all sorts of smallish jobs and can be used comfortably with two hands or one. Why use a sanding block to remove machining marks from the edges of a small drawer side? One or two passes with this plane and the edge is smooth and ready for finishing.
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Or use it with one hand to gently round an edge or clean up a chamfer.
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With the blade cambered, I can level up a delicate joint or smooth any small surface.
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Of course every woodworker has a favourite plane to perform these tasks. You certainly do not need this plane or an infill plane - whatever works for you. I would just like to encourage more woodworkers to trust in their fine planes on projects. I’d rather sweep up shavings than sanding dust.
I actually use this size plane to fit my parallel sided infills and the first time I tried it I was surprised at how accurate this method is.<br />
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I was finally able to get my hands on Naval brass for this plane thanks to a good Samaritan in America. It was a great brass to work with and it will be what I use for now on for my low-slung smoothers. Here are some more pictures of the finished plane.
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While taking the photos for this most recent blog, my wife and I had a play with the video feature of her camera. It was a bit of fun – you can check it out on the new Video page on my website - <a href="http://www.bjsplanesandwoodworking.com/p/blog-page_7.html" target="_blank">BJS Planes and Working - Video page</a>.
BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-39357749260173808232014-04-04T22:46:00.000-07:002014-04-04T22:46:09.297-07:00The little guy gets left behindThis was my first go at incorporating my new shape in a set of four low-slung smoothers. I experimented with a new type of brass for this set and in my opinion it was too soft for tool making. I assembled and peened the smallest size plane body first and was not happy with the results. As you see in the photo the brass deformed too much and the dovetails on the smallest sized, plane body look sloppy.
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I wanted to redo this body however my 01 tool steel supplier did not have any steel in stock for the plane sole so I continued on with the rest of the set. I used my common sense to alter my peening technique for the next three planes and it all worked out fine. These three planes look and work beautifully. I will not work with this type of brass again, so this is a finished set of three planes.
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The Kingwood infill material was wonderful to work with and it was an added challenge to get the infills to match from the same piece of wood. The sizes of the set from left to right are:
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7 ½” long by 1 ¾” wide blade
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6 ¾” long by 1 ½” wide blade
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6 ⅛” long by 1 ¼” wide blade
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BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-54707651234215851172014-02-15T19:33:00.000-08:002014-02-15T19:33:02.990-08:00Rosewood Infill PlaneI have just finished a 1 ¾” low-slung smoother, which is the largest of a set of four that I am currently working on. Here is a picture of me rough shaping the body of the plane. I always enjoy this part of the process.
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After rough shaping, I then lap the sole and sides on my granite engineer’s plate.
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In last years “Commission” blog, I talk about the changes I made to the shape of my low-slung smoothers but I did not show a photo of the old shape next to the new.
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv_EsejZOzFY6rKmbAFbH0WLaxtAD8M7yy_dstbs-vqFxB_rPsQpxP-KY8cp5ZUiZLUQDjarKAStVn3MfiHbodww9Zi8fDQpOkL2IIscDUPcfgq2clrj6f9KDW2mQWHr1zxUR3mgWIfsXM/s1600/3-IMG_1054.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv_EsejZOzFY6rKmbAFbH0WLaxtAD8M7yy_dstbs-vqFxB_rPsQpxP-KY8cp5ZUiZLUQDjarKAStVn3MfiHbodww9Zi8fDQpOkL2IIscDUPcfgq2clrj6f9KDW2mQWHr1zxUR3mgWIfsXM/s1600/3-IMG_1054.JPG" height="240" title="Finished brass and steel smoother with Rosewood infill, New and Old shape" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"> New (Left) and Old (Right) </span></td></tr>
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Aesthetically I think the new shape is an improvement. The new shape of the front and rear infills also fits my hand more comfortably.
The infill wood is Kingwood (Dalbergia Cearensis); a very dense, stable and beautiful rosewood.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZy0aE0pHli3BGu0pzHFRMg8j1s1hy5CIcPZood3ssaPc4AntaMjJOQ3BL7nu6DKsYIGDOxi5Nmd7uJWyJ5Yd0idcfyKXs0zPlfBm7JrPZSi8kCGvF-IdpoWRyVPEH5kQ5uQzKfBI4RNZH/s1600/4-IMG_1076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZy0aE0pHli3BGu0pzHFRMg8j1s1hy5CIcPZood3ssaPc4AntaMjJOQ3BL7nu6DKsYIGDOxi5Nmd7uJWyJ5Yd0idcfyKXs0zPlfBm7JrPZSi8kCGvF-IdpoWRyVPEH5kQ5uQzKfBI4RNZH/s1600/4-IMG_1076.JPG" height="240" title=" Finished brass and steel smoother with Rosewood infill, 1 3/4" wide blade & 7 1/2" long" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"> Low-slung smoother, 1 3/4" wide blade & 7 1/2" long body </span></td></tr>
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Working with different species of wood is one of the things which I enjoy most about woodworking and plane making. Finding precious pieces, hoarding them in my dehumidifing closet, weighing them, measuring them with my moisture meter, it’s all a part of the hobby. Here’s a picture of one of my pieces of Kingwood. Seven percent moisture content and ready to use.
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BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-48703913943895532522013-12-23T19:59:00.000-08:002013-12-23T19:59:11.645-08:00UpdateWell just last night I got the last plane body dovetailed together for the set of four low slung smoothers. They don't look like much yet, but here are a couple of pictures.<br />
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Of course it is slow going because I only have Saturday's to dedicate to plane making. The main thing is that I have been enjoying every second of it. I take plane making very seriously, however I do not want it to feel like a second job. I am also comfortable with the fact that I will only be producing a small quantity of planes each year.<br />
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Well, Christmas is here already and I am looking forward to a couple of days of R&R with family and friends. I have been living in Australia for five years now and I still find it strange to be celebrating Christmas in the middle of summer.BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-72468903225514543672013-09-21T20:49:00.000-07:002014-02-18T00:07:12.407-08:00Cabinetmaker's Work BenchMy wife and I are just back from a six week vacation in Newfoundland Canada, catching up with family and friends, beautiful hikes and paddling my old cedar canvas canoe. A wild and beautiful place like Newfoundland was a great place to recharge our batteries.
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Before the trip my last project was a Cabinetmaker’s Workbench. A friend of mine, who is new to woodworking has a small out building on his property that he wanted to use as a hand tool workshop. Since he approached me with this idea less than a year ago his enthusiasm has been impressive. He has all of my favourite woodworking books devoured and has already amassed a pretty nice hand tool collection. Of course he needed his first workbench. He wanted a relatively small bench that fit the blueprint of his workshop. We used Tasmanian Oak and kept the thickness to a minimum to lower the cost. The construction method is basic but solid. For hand planing a good tail vice is a must. The problem with most tail vices is that when you open them they stick out from the end of the bench. A wagon vice solves this problem however you have to live with a large opening in the bench top. For this bench we decided to try a tail vice made by H.N.T. Gordon& Co. Classic Plane Makers (<a href="http://www.hntgordon.com.au">www.hntgordon.com.au</a>).
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At first glance this tail vice seems very basic. Then when you take a closer look, you realise that this vice is the product of great thinking and expert design. Properly installing the vice takes a bit of work but here is how it goes. The vice needs to be recessed into the bench top so you first need to make an accurate routering jig.
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The recess needs to be 42mm deep so I recommend at least 5 passes with a sharp router bit to achieve a clean and accurate recess.
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Notice how the internal threads are completely sealed. This is what makes the vice so effective.
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The next step is to make a jig to router the recess for a wooden cover plate. This jig looks the same as the first but is 10mm larger at the front and sides. The router is set at 7mm deep. I then refine with my shoulder plane.
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Then you make the wooden cover plate. Mill the plate to 7.5 or 8mm thick, dress one edge, then run through the table saw so it is close to a tight fit. Then I dress the other edge with my 1” low-slung smoother until the fit is perfect.
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Next, run the slot for the brass dog. Again I recommend several passes to get the router bit through.
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Now plane the plate flush with the bench top.
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A finely tuned hand plane is the tool for this job. The plate is flush, polished and the sealer coat of tung oil on the bench top is hardly disturbed.
Here is the tail vice fully installed. Do not be tempted to glue the plate in place. Removable means repairable and you may need to clean things out every now and then.
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The front vice is very basic. Lining with leather is a tip that I picked up from my friend Duncan Robertson from the School of Quiet Woodworking (<a href="http://quietwoodworking.com/">http://quietwoodworking.com/</a>).
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When fully installed, the vice works beautifully. It comes with a drawing and instructions. Sorry I was a little brief with some of the steps and some people may choose to approach this install differently.
Here is a picture of the bench in its new home, with my friend Austin’s first project, a Christopher Schwarz inspired sawhorse.
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BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-72430001690990427482013-06-23T00:37:00.000-07:002013-06-23T01:58:47.298-07:00Prototype Coffin SmootherOf course I have a “bucket list” of planes that I would like to make and I have for some time wanted to make a small version of a traditional coffin smoother. My idea was to make a smoother with a 1 1/2 inch wide blade and between 5 1/2 to 6 inches long. I do not own any traditional, unhandled, coffin smoothers so the design proportions were up to me. I have, in the past, used the “compose as you go” method successfully on several woodworking projects. However, I do not recommend this method for plane making. Accurate drawings are a must. After drawing the plane, I can usually feel confident that the proportions are going to work. I make planes to use, so for this plane I also needed to make a mock up infill out of some scrap pine.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Prototype of coffin smoother</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Steel dovetails on coffin smoother</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Finished steel coffin smoother with Ebony infill, 1 1/2" wide blade & 5 3/4" long body</span></td></tr>
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For those of you that are new to infill planes then you will notice from these photos that when you dovetail a steel sole and sides together, then the dovetails disappear. When I first became interested in infill planes I could never imagine going through the labour intensive dovetailing process and in the end not see the joints. I have always been inspired by the work of plane maker Konrad Sauer of Sauer and Steiner Toolworks. He opened my eyes to the fact that certain infill woods marry beautifully with the clean, crispness of 01 tool steel, and of course ebony is one of these woods.
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This plane is coffin or curved shaped, which of course is a great deal more challenging than a parallel sided plane. Fitting the infill is one of those challenges and it takes patience to get it right. The infill has to be tediously hand fit. It makes an amateur plane maker like me really respect the guys that do it for a living. In the end I am happy with the fit of my infill.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Front infill detail</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Rear infill detail</span></td></tr>
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I am trying to keep the corner detail crisp, where the steel sides meet the steel base. The close up photo of the front shows this. I missed the mark on this detail on my last plane, which annoyed me to no end. If you look at other plane maker’s websites you will see that this detail gets approached in various ways. Aesthetic details are important to me however, when I am making a plane the anticipation of taking that first shaving is my biggest priority.
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I am happy with this plane. Of course it is not perfect. That will never happen. Next time I would change the shape of the lever cap a little and I also need to work on my finishing. It does not have the one handed versatility of my small, low slung smoothers, but it is nonetheless very comfortable to use. I am looking forward to making this plane with brass or bronze sides and because you see so much of the infill this plane design is great for showcasing beautiful woods.
BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-57732029688165776742013-05-18T17:23:00.000-07:002013-05-24T16:30:19.233-07:00Cabinetmaker’s Tool ChestI had hoped to dedicate this post to my new prototype coffin smoother, which I just finished. However, I am still waiting on the custom blade. These last few months have been busy. All of my spare time has been dedicated to my infill plane obsession. My wife jokingly calls herself “The Plane Widow”. Well at least I hope she is joking.
Sourcing precious infill material has been my biggest priority. I want to showcase beautiful Australian species as well as the more traditional infill woods. If anyone has a contact for good infill wood please shoot me an email.
I have been receiving some emails of interest regarding the tool chest in the photos from my first blog. For anyone interested, here is a closer look. I made this chest in Canada in 2005 from Beech. This side and top view shows the Walnut veneer diamond match in the lid.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Walnut veneer diamond match lid</span></td></tr>
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Opening the lid reveals the compass rose veneer inlay, which is Makasar Ebony and Cherry. Notice the grain direction in the inlay, it makes the tips of the veneer easy to break. The diamond inlays to the left and right are Walnut burl with a black Ebony border.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Compass rose veneer inlay, Makasar Ebony and Cherry</span></td></tr>
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All the dovetails are hand cut and all the mitres have hand cut walnut keys. The lid has a dovetailed key. Adding this final detail to the lid tested my nerves, however these keys help strengthen the mitres by adding a side grain glue surface.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Walnut key</span></td></tr>
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This is the detail in the bottom skirting. My dovetail saw made the perfect kerf for the Walnut veneer.
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I originally fitted the chest with brass handles, but after a couple of years I changed them out for a more heavy duty wood handle. The diamond is 5mm thick solid Walnut. I wanted the diamond to have fine tips, so after routering out the recess in the Beech I had to use a very fine carving knife to refine the tips. Then of course I had to cut and fit the walnut diamond. I milled a piece of 6mm thick Walnut and prepared myself for a tedious fitting process. Fortunately the opposite happened. I marked four layout lines on the Walnut and made four cuts with my gents saw. The fit was perfect. I did both inlays with no fuss at all. Just don’t ask me to do it again.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Walnut diamond detail</span></td></tr>
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The removable trays and saw till are made from Honduran Mahogany and all have tiny single-kerf dovetails. Most of the tools have been French fit.
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I hope someday to make a matching lower cabinet with larger drawers to take the lift out trays, maybe when I retire. For now the chest sits on a temporary pine stand. I designed the built in cabinets in my shop to take the lift out tool trays. My planes that sit in the bottom of the tool chest are then easily accessible as I work.
I really enjoyed making this project. My advice to the hobby woodworker is to build projects that you feel inspired and motivated to make. They don’t always have to be technically challenging. After making this tool chest I built a bunch of birdhouses for my Mother’s garden and loved every minute of it. I have another tool chest that I use every day in my “real job” as a cabinetmaker. I will give everyone a closer look in a later blog.
I definitely have a thing for tool chests and making little homes for my tools. If you are a woodworker who does your rough milling with machinery and then uses hand tools for your final details, then I would recommend making a smaller machinist/patternmakers style chest and then a larger rolling cabinet for it to sit on. Drawers are definitely a more effective use of space and make all of those smaller tools easier to access.
BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comMelbourne VIC, Australia-37.814107 144.96327999999994-38.6164245 143.67238649999993 -37.0117895 146.25417349999995tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-8450092571069804582013-03-02T19:50:00.001-08:002013-03-02T19:50:29.801-08:00Plane CommissionTo get everyone up to speed, my wife and I purchased a house about 18 months ago and we have been busy renovating. I now have a larger, double garage which I am slowly setting up as a new workshop. Since December I have been working on a plane commission. I am currently pricing some woodworking machinery but for this plane my processes still involve mainly hand tools.
Here are some pictures:
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTg6wa1M3vTv-vE7QoZncfPmKEqWoKCGrGDU0IPnW30qWJn9mB2ZZB8lz5wosDJ0RFZNQlQWx7LIw-F4o1Th8rNFZLxXIIu84_NrfXL1gvsRZyCHTstUHhkAGrKkQkq7bFkLlel5tQeSX2/s1600/1-body-474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTg6wa1M3vTv-vE7QoZncfPmKEqWoKCGrGDU0IPnW30qWJn9mB2ZZB8lz5wosDJ0RFZNQlQWx7LIw-F4o1Th8rNFZLxXIIu84_NrfXL1gvsRZyCHTstUHhkAGrKkQkq7bFkLlel5tQeSX2/s1600/1-body-474.JPG" height="240" title="Dovetails hacksawed, assembled and peened" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"> Dovetails hacksawed, assembled and peened </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T0N2P1QHPfA/UTK9Cl1dXTI/AAAAAAAAAK0/V1PY4C6toCQ/s1600/2-infill-0481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T0N2P1QHPfA/UTK9Cl1dXTI/AAAAAAAAAK0/V1PY4C6toCQ/s1600/2-infill-0481.JPG" height="240" title="Rear infill fit" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Rear infill fit</span></td></tr>
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Here I am cutting the curve for the front infill with my bowsaw, which I made six or seven years ago.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aXufJCI1aTc/UTK9K6B667I/AAAAAAAAALE/IHJdfQZlf_I/s1600/4-finished-550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aXufJCI1aTc/UTK9K6B667I/AAAAAAAAALE/IHJdfQZlf_I/s1600/4-finished-550.JPG" height="240" title="Finished plane" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Finished infill plane</span></td></tr>
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Brass sides, 01 tool steel base. Low-slung smoother, 6 <sup>5</sup>/<sub>8</sub>” long, 1 <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub>” iron, 50 degree pitch.<br />
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This plane was commissioned by Alastair Boell. After graduating from the North Bennet Street School in Boston, USA, Alastair returned to Australia and in 2007 founded the Melbourne Guild of Fine Woodworking (<a href="http://www.mgfw.com.au/">www.mgfw.com.au</a>). Here is a picture of myself and Alastair when he came to my shop to receive his plane.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Alastair-left, Brian-right</span></td></tr>
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Alastair is a gifted furniture maker and instructor. He is also a truly genuine guy. This was a great commission.
When I set about to make this plane I wanted to make some changes to the shape. I decided to make the front of the plane steeper and also move the blade forward a little. I also chose to dome the rear infill more. I am happy with this final shape. This is also the first plane to have my custom logo stamped into the blade. I get my blades from Hock Tools, USA (<a href="http://www.hocktools.com/">www.hocktools.com</a>). If you want great blades and excellent customer service, then Ron Hock is your man. Thanks again Ron.
Here are some more photos. This ringed Gidgee has some beautiful figure.<br />
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<br />BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-482136115151978772.post-78760252564187697782013-01-26T22:20:00.001-08:002013-01-26T22:20:38.382-08:00Squirrel Tail Plane<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjocCd939_MJKPsemI5PzHD8_iB10Bcn1MVGzCn33vIFDXpAY0emSEaqN7yVVz6kS3EeGxMwDTmxu3MAX2cF5ap9bPHP3JTjm1WymOi1-IRWGMQH_MRHJEIUoJcxg5j3uQqJE0eJtxJ5Tau/s1600/1-blog3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjocCd939_MJKPsemI5PzHD8_iB10Bcn1MVGzCn33vIFDXpAY0emSEaqN7yVVz6kS3EeGxMwDTmxu3MAX2cF5ap9bPHP3JTjm1WymOi1-IRWGMQH_MRHJEIUoJcxg5j3uQqJE0eJtxJ5Tau/s1600/1-blog3.JPG" height="239" title="Squirrel tail infill plane ringed gidgee" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Body 3.5” long, 1” wide blade, infill wood Ringed Gidgee</span></td></tr>
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The idea for this plane came to mind while working on this jewellery box for my Grandmother’s 85th birthday.
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I was using Lie Nielson’s version of this plane for cleaning up the delicate banding and inlay work, but found that the mouth opening was far too large for very fine veneer planing.
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Here is a picture of my infill version of the Lie Nielson and an old Stanley #100, which I borrowed from a friend.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Q9Vl8r2BKxvWwkVYeONYedYDevKbVVPS0ed9MGjCdJfmM3JZMV7yo-fY83xog6etUuqEMN_x9IBJuaMPG1UAR1Xe63Jy-f5h-lX-cVPmJmyWw4GWfOHXNXGGjtywnccrkur9565bTksy/s1600/7-blog3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Q9Vl8r2BKxvWwkVYeONYedYDevKbVVPS0ed9MGjCdJfmM3JZMV7yo-fY83xog6etUuqEMN_x9IBJuaMPG1UAR1Xe63Jy-f5h-lX-cVPmJmyWw4GWfOHXNXGGjtywnccrkur9565bTksy/s1600/7-blog3.JPG" height="239" title="Squirrel tail infill plane ringed gidgee" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Left-Infill, Middle-Lie Nielson, Right-Stanley #100</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3E4NO6vc8mG4C9J__dfZqC-u3EcsgSr7uKGUYHw69bj7t92Nqx47A8JQR8fFN5RmDqp3Ed66ocAnx2hgKc62wqDeeMKr0BTPfyOGDnVoaU_cVCGlSdYxZgV53P0NL6W_DbMm-55gpw7eG/s1600/8-blog3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3E4NO6vc8mG4C9J__dfZqC-u3EcsgSr7uKGUYHw69bj7t92Nqx47A8JQR8fFN5RmDqp3Ed66ocAnx2hgKc62wqDeeMKr0BTPfyOGDnVoaU_cVCGlSdYxZgV53P0NL6W_DbMm-55gpw7eG/s1600/8-blog3.JPG" height="239" title="Squirrel tail infill plane ringed gidgee" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Infill 50<sup>o</sup> pitch bevel down, Lie Nielson 12<sup>o</sup> bevel up, Stanley 45<sup>o</sup> bevel down </span></td></tr>
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When using these three planes the extra mass of the infill plane is a welcome advantage. I also designed this plane to take a 3/16” thick blade, which also adds to the solid feel. From using the Lie Nielson, I decided to increase the height of the “tail” to fit my hand more comfortably. I also increased the blade width from 7/8” to 1”.
This was my first go at a curved or “coffin shaped” infill plane with an “overstuffed” infill. Tricky, but worth the effort. The only change I would make would be to increase the length of the blade. The only power tool used on this plane was a drill press. I think this would be a treasured plane for any detail minded woodworker. I would consider making this plane again and I have some interesting infill woods to try. You can view more pictures of this plane in the gallery.
BJSPlaneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07359667630862108679noreply@blogger.com